Permanent Wave

The most common reducing agent used in permanent waving is thioglycolic acid. This compound provides the hydrogen which is the catalyst in the reduction phase of the redox process. The redox process occurs during permanent waving in two phases. The first phase is called the reduction and the second phase is oxidation.

When the reduction reaction occurs the hair’s disulfide bond is broken allowing the polypeptide chains to take a new curled shape. Hair must swell to raise the cuticle and allow the waving solution to enter into the cortex layer of the hair. Thioglycolic acid is combined with ammonia to produce ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) to assist in raising the cuticle. During the oxidation phase, netrualizer is used, and the pH balance of the hair is returned to its normal level of 4.5 to 5.5.

The strength of permanent waving solutions is correlated based on the amount of thio concentration. The porosity of the cuticle layer, strength and resistance of the hair should correspond with the alkalinity of the permanent waving solution. Permanent waving is also known as perming. This process can be used on straight hair as well as extremely curly hair. However, the procedures differ.

Permanent waving has been around since the 1940’s. Since then, there have been many new developments, and today there are various types of permanent waves offered in salons. Wave By Design is an alkaline perm that does not use heat. It penetrates easily on resistant hair types and works quickly for experienced professionals.