Consultation

The most important service a stylist provides is the consultation. The consultation establishes communication between the client and the stylist, and gives a clear direction for the desired look. The client’s expectations can be set during this session, and the hair stylist can determine which method, products and services are needed. In addition, clients get the perfect opportunity to explain the likes and dislikes about their hair and previous services.

The consultation usually takes anywhere from 5 to 20 minutes. It is important to get all necessary hair history, at home regimens, products used and treatments used prior to the visit. Stylists will also want to be sure to ask clients about allergies and medications so they can take extra precautions when selecting and applying products. Leaving out key information can cause less than desired results, so stylists must take the time to ask plenty of questions.

During an initial consultation the stylist will analyze the texture, curl pattern, growth pattern, elasticity, porosity, length, and density to determine the condition of the client’s hair.

Hair Texture

Hair texture is defined in three basic ways: coarse, medium and fine. The diameter of each individual hair strand determines the texture of hair. For example, coarse hair has a greater diameter than medium or fine hair. Coarse hair tends to be more resistant to chemical services such as relaxer, color or perm, because it has so much more substance to it. Whereas fine hair is very easy to process and often times prone to over-processing and damage from chemical services because it is so thin. Stylists can determine if hair is coarse, medium or fine by holding a single strand of dry hair between two fingers.

Curl Patterns

Curl patterns range from straight, loose waves, wavy, curly, tightly curled, coiled, and tightly coiled.

The curl pattern speaks volumes to the stylist in regards to its own special characteristics such as: prone to frizz, easy or resistant to style, dryer time, moisture content and many more.

Growth Patterns

Prior to performing services on clients, especially haircuts, stylists should analyze the client’s hair growth patterns. Cowlicks, whorls and hair streams occur as a result of growth patterns. Hair follicles rarely grow straight out from the scalp which would reflect 90 degrees. Most hair growth patterns grow at various degrees.

Cowlicks are generally seen around the front hairline where a small group of hairs stand straight up.

Whorls form in a circular pattern and can be seen in different areas of the head, but mainly in the crown of the head.

Follicles slope in the same direction it causes hair to flow in the same direction. This is called a hair stream. For example, a natural part is formed when two streams flow in opposite directions.

Elasticity

Just think of a rubber band. Elasticity is the ability of hair to stretch and contract. Stylists may choose to perform a strand test to determine the elasticity of hair. When stylists test the elasticity of hair, strands are selected from different areas of the head. Stylists hold a wet single strand of hair and stretch the hair. If the hair returns to its original form without breaking just like that of a rubber band, it is considered normal elasticity.

Good elasticity is represented by hair stretching approximately 20 percent of its natural length when dry and up to 50 percent when wet with no breakage.

The symptoms of low elasticity include breakage, hard to hold curls and styles. The chemical services selected must have a lower pH to prevent damage and over-processing. When stylists test the elasticity of hair, strands are selected from different areas of the head.

Porosity

Porosity is the hair’s ability to absorb water. The condition of the cuticle layer of the hair is directly related to the hair’s porosity. Hair that is resistant to penetration has a compact cuticle layer and is considered to be normal healthy hair. The porosity of hair can be categorized as low porosity, average porosity and/or high porosity.

Low porosity – Resistant hair: the hair’s ability to absorb water is low, and the cells of the cuticle layer are not raised, which prevents solutions from entering into the cortex layer of the hair.

Average porosity – Normal Hair: the cells of the cuticle layer are slightly raised.

High porosity – Dry, brittle or damaged hair:the hair strand may feel rough, and cuticle layer cells are raised. The porosity can be checked on dry hair by moving the thumb and fore finger up and down the single strand. Generally high porosity can be determined easily because the hair is usually in an extremely unhealthy state.

Length

Hair typically grows about 6 inches per year. During this same period as a number of strands may be growing, your hair will also experience shedding at the same time. Many factors determine the rate and length of hair growth including diet, hair care practices, genetics, health, medication, and hormones.

Hair grows through three cycles: anagen, catagen and telogen.

The Anagen Phase is the active growing cycle. During this phase, hair grows 1cm every 28 days and stays in this growth phase for 2 to 6 years. Depending on the length of time one stays in this active phase will determine the common length of their hair. If you find that no matter what you do, your hair only grows to a certain length then that means you have a short active phase of growth.

The Catagen Phase is known as the transitional phase, which lasts approximately 1 to 2 weeks. During this time growth stops and the papilla begins to separate from the follicle. This process cuts the hair off from its blood supply and from the cells that produce new hair. Only 3% of all hair is in this phase at any time.

The Telogen Phase is the resting phase and accounts for 10% – 15% of all hair. This phase lasts 5 to 6 weeks. During this phase the hair follicle is at rest and if you were to pull out a hair you would reveal a solid white mass at the root of the hair. This is the typical phase for shedding, which amounts to 25 – 100 hairs per day.

After the Telogen Phase the cycle begins again and new hair is formed during the Anagen phase.

Density

Do you know how many hairs the average head contains? The answer is 100,000.

The density of hair is measured by the number of individual strands per square inch. On average most people have approximately 2,200 hairs per square inch or 2.5 cm. One’s natural hair color on average can determine the density of the hair. For example, a natural blond on average has 140,000 hairs, natural brown – 120,000, natural black – 108,000, and natural red – 90,000.